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Polishing continues. I’ve noticed that my short center over center strokes seem to be creating a hill in the center of this mirror, so I’ve switched to longer 1/2-diameter strokes and 1/3 side to side motion in order to wear down the center of the mirror. It seems to be working, according to these ronchi test images before and after. I’m jumping the gun a little by figuring while polishing but there’s a long way to go so I should be fine.
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Another hour and a half of polishing and my piece of glass is looking much more reflective!
I was stroking with tool on top, but I noticed the center of the pitch lap wasn’t making good contact. I suspect the plaster backing tool that the mirror rests on isn’t evenly supporting the mirror; it picked up a slightly wavy surface I was hoping wouldn’t cause issues. When I poured the tool I used wax paper to ensure it wouldn’t stick to the mirror, and the wax paper crumpled slightly from being flat on a non-flat mirror surface.
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I created a pitch lap, a tool used for the last two steps of mirror making. I will use it for polishing and figuring. Pitch, also known as asphalt, is a viscous liquid like honey and will flow to match the shape of the mirror when pressed against it.
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8" telescope: COMPLETE!!
It has literally taken all year, but my second telescope ever is done! It’s made of 3D printed parts, metal tubes, nuts and bolts, and a mirror I hand-polished over the course of 8 months! I’m very proud.
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My refurbished tool is ready to go. However, I have to go back a few sizes to coarser grit to ensure the tool is ground down evenly to make good contact across its full area. From 5 micron (the last size of grit needed) back to 30 micron size grit I go…
Thankfully, after an hour of grinding, it looks like it’s wearing evenly. It’s sliding smoothly across the mirror.
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My 8" mirror that I polished by hand is officially a mirror! The person with a vacuum chamber, who I gave my mirror to two months ago, finally aluminized my mirror and sent me a picture! It’s shiny and reflective like a mirror should be!
Now it just has to survive being shipped back…
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Grinding the back has gone smoothly. At first I didn’t get good contact between tool and mirror; one orientation would slide freely but after turning the mirror 90 degrees any attempts to slide would lock up. Eventually the tool wore down and I got good contact.
In these pictures, my goal is to spread the frosted area (where the mirror has been sanded down to a sphere) everywhere. Any smooth areas are where the grit hasn’t made good contact (lower areas).
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When grinding thin mirrors, there is something called the “twyman effect”: grinding one side adds stress that can slightly curl the mirror’s other side. It can lead to slight astigmatism in thin mirrors that disappears once you grind the back side to relieve that stress. (See https://quinsightspectre.com/16-25-f-3-1-meniscus-mirror/ !)
To avoid any problems, I decided to follow the wisdom and grind my meniscus mirror’s convex back through #220 grit. Plus, it would get rid of any saddle shape, which I could see existed when beginning to grind the front.
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My 8" mirror is done; now I need to aluminize it.
The final step of making a telescope mirror, after spending months grinding glass into a parabola, is to cover the perfectly shaped glass in a thin layer of shiny reflective metal.
The most common technique is melting aluminum in a vacuum chamber so the atoms gently float onto the glass and stick. (There’s also a newer spray silvering technique that involves $400 of chemicals but amortizes out to cheap for many mirrors.
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Today’s hour of mirror grinding has completely gotten rid of the low zone! Now I just need to grind down through that one tiny divot.
I noticed it seemed like my tool was pushing the water I sprayed out off the mirror. I used a blade to try to carve notches in between my hexagonal tiles, and afterwards I could feel the tool sliding more smoothly, allowing water to flow between the tool and the mirror.
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