This little 3D printed telescope kickstarted my journey into astronomy. The design is free and open source, and uses 3D printed parts, aluminum tubes, and hardware store nuts and bolts.
It sits on the Hill Mount, a portable and cheap altitude mount I designed that costs around $20. It’s lightweight enough I have walked two miles to a subway stop while carrying it the whole time.
Azimuth is controlled by physically sliding the plastic across the ground. Sure, I could put it on a turntable, but that would make it heavier.
It has a number of upgrades - including an integrated finderscope and a high-tech computerized aiming system I printed and hand-soldered myself.
Finderscope
The first upgrade is an 6x50 finderscope that says “orion” on it. I found it in my local astronomy club’s shelf of spare parts and designed a 3D printed adapter for it to fit onto the telescope. It features integrated crosshairs and helps me line up planets at a glance!
Sliced Pifinder
The second upgrade is the Sliced PiFinder. It’s a targeting computer that permanently lives on my telescope - which is an incredible sentence. We truly live in the future.
The PiFinder is a device that uses a raspberry pi and a camera to take pictures of the sky and compute where in the sky your telescope is aiming, even with high light pollution. Since it knows where the telescope points, you can select a particular galaxy or nebula and it will tell you how to push the telescope to get there.
PiFinders are an open-source project that can also be bought for $500 from the designer. Mine was built for $110 - a mere slice of the cost. The stock PiFinder is designed for a Raspberry Pi 4 using the Raspberry Pi High Quality Camera ($50) with a $50 lens, but I 3D printed and assembled the parts myself, used a scavenged battery pack and previous-generation Raspberry Pi 3 from a defunct project, and a $30 IMX462 camera and $12 lens.
Taking photos on a budget
I like to think of myself as on the cutting edge of cell phone astrophotography. I use a 3D printed clamp to hold my phone up to the eyepiece and take photos using my phone camera. However, tapping the phone button causes vibrations that wobble the telsecope. To fix that, I use a raspberry pi pico microcontroller as a wireless remote shutter. I programmed it to act as a bluetooth mouse and connect to my phone. When I press the built-in button, it moves the mouse to the center of the screen and clicks the “take picture” button. To see pictures this setup has taken, take a look at my Astrophotos page!
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Perseus double cluster
Equipment used: my 3D printed 4.5" telescope, custom mount, Pico pic-taker button, my phone
I have a raw version of this where some stars are noticeably blue or orange but it has more camera noise than this
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I’m building a PiFinder! It uses a camera to take pictures of the sky, connected to a raspberry pi which uses a database of stars to tell you where in the sky your telescope is pointing. But a PiFinder is $550 new. A stock pifinder uses the newest and most expensive options for pis and cameras, and when I looked at the parts list, I thought: I can build something similar for a fifth of the price!
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The pifinder is a tool to help you aim a telescope. It uses a camera to take pictures of the sky, connected to a raspberry pi which uses a database of stars to tell you where in the sky your telescope is pointing. Then, if you want to find a specific object, it tells you what direction to move your telescope in.
I’m building a janky pifinder with some nonstandard parts: instead of a $60 raspi 4 and $50 HQ camera and $25 lens and $30 IMU, I’m using a $10 lens, a secondhand raspi 3, and a cheap “pi camera module v1” from 2013 that was attached to the raspi, and a $20 IMU with unpronounceable name I found lying around in a drawer of sensors.
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Pifinder update: the new $33 camera arrived! But it’s slightly bigger than my previous camera, so I had to design a new part to hold it. While the pifinder was designed with M2.5 screws, this camera only accepts smaller M2 screws. I had to go to the hardware store yet again.
The pifinder is designed for a raspberry pi HQ camera ($50). Originally instead I wanted to use a pi camera module V1 ($10, from 2013) because I recycled it from another project, but it didn’t work too well.
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I built enough of a pifinder to test it! This pifinder is using a pi camera v1 because I salvaged an old secondhand pi project… and it was able to see one or two stars, but not much more because of light pollution. Not enough to see the stars and plate solve to see where in the sky it was aimed at. I ordered a better $33 camera, maybe that’ll work
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The first picture is at 36x zoom, the second one at 150x zoom. The more zoomed in one is fainter because the same light is spread across more area, but you can see the four trapezium stars as four separate streaks!
This was a very frustrating night for photography because finding things in a big sky is hard. Light pollution made it hard to see M31, I couldn’t find M33, and then finally clouds rolled in and it became a race against time to photograph the Orion nebula M42.
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Today in observing I:
Tried to get a photo of the ring nebula through the 6mm lens. Realized my finderscope was misaligned, couldn’t get it aligned in time before it sank below a tree. Tried to get a photo of Jupiter, succeeded! Tried out a new phone app named skeyecam that lets you take many many photos with the same settings, for some reason it made Jupiter green. Then I tried taking a photo of m42 through the 6mm lens, but I couldn’t get anything on camera.
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I found this with the help of an amateur with a huge telescope and laser pointer so bright it looked like a line pointing into the sky. Looked like a dim circular smudge to the eye. Picture taken with the 25mm eyepiece, so I bet I could get an even better picture through the more zoomed in 6mm
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Reminder to North and South Americans, there’s an eclipse today! https://www.timeanddate.com/eclipse/in/usa?iso=20231014 DON’T LOOK AT THE SUN WITHOUT SPECIAL ECLIPSE GLASSES, EVEN DURING A PARTIAL ECLIPSE! If you don’t have one, take a piece of paper, punch a hole in it, and look at the shadow. Trees or colanders with many holes will make very cool shadows!
